Category Archives: DIY

DIY

How to Build an Animal Trap and Snare Trap: Step-by-Step Guide

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If you find yourself in a survival situation or need to manage small wildlife on your property, knowing how to build an animal trap or snare trap is a vital skill. These traps are simple, efficient, and can be made using readily available materials. In this blog, we’ll walk you through a step-by-step guide on how to create a basic animal trap and a classic snare trap using natural and manmade resources.

What You’ll Need:

  • Paracord, wire, or strong string
  • Knife or multitool
  • Branches or flexible saplings
  • Rocks or bait
  • Patience and attention to animal behavior

Step 1: Choose the Right Location

Animals follow predictable paths, especially around food or water sources. Look for signs such as tracks, droppings, chewed plants, or narrow animal trails. Set your trap in these areas for the best chance of success. Conceal your trap with natural materials like leaves and grass to avoid alerting your target.

Step 2: Build a Basic Snare Trap

A snare trap uses a looped noose that tightens when an animal walks through it. Here’s how to build one:

1. Cut a Length of Wire or Cord:
Use 2-3 feet of wire or strong cord. Create a small loop at one end and thread the other end through it to form a larger loop — this is your snare.

2. Find a Support Structure:
Use a small tree, branch, or bent sapling as the spring mechanism. If no spring pole is available, you can set a stationary snare with tension only from the animal’s movement.

3. Secure the Snare:
Attach the fixed end to a stable object — a tree, stake, or rock. Position the loop at head height for the target animal. For rabbits, about 4–6 inches off the ground with a 3–4 inch diameter loop.

4. Set the Trigger Mechanism (Optional):
For a spring snare, carve a simple trigger using a peg and notch system. When tripped, the bent sapling pulls the animal into the air, reducing escape risk.

Step 3: Constructing a Deadfall Trap

The deadfall trap uses a heavy object to crush the animal when triggered. The Figure-4 deadfall trap is a classic design:

1. Gather 3 Sticks:
Carve three sticks to interlock in a “Figure 4” shape. Each stick should be about 8–12 inches long.

  • Vertical stick (upright)
  • Diagonal stick (trigger)
  • Horizontal stick (bait stick)

2. Carve Notches:
Use your knife to carve notches that allow the sticks to fit together tightly in the figure-4 shape.

3. Set the Weight:
Balance a heavy flat rock or log on top of the trigger mechanism. The bait stick holds the weight in place until disturbed.

4. Bait the Trap:
Place bait on the end of the bait stick. Peanut butter, fruit, or plant-based bait work well depending on the animal.

Final Tips

  • Always check local regulations before setting any traps.
  • Check traps frequently to reduce suffering and improve success.
  • Practice setting these traps in a safe, controlled environment before needing them in a survival situation.
DIY

Mulch vs Side Discharge vs Bag: Which Lawnmower Option Should You Use?

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When it comes to mowing your lawn, it’s not just about how often you mow—it’s also about how you manage the grass clippings. Most modern lawnmowers offer three cutting options: mulching, side discharge, and bagging. Each method has its pros and cons, and understanding when to use each one can help you maintain a healthier lawn with less effort.

Mulching: Feeding Your Lawn Naturally

What It Does:
Mulching mowers chop grass clippings into fine pieces and return them to the lawn, where they decompose and return nutrients to the soil.

When to Use It:
Mulching is ideal for regular lawn maintenance, especially when you’re cutting only about one-third of the grass blade. It works best when the grass is dry and not overly long.

Pros:

  • Naturally fertilizes your lawn.
  • Reduces waste and eliminates the need for disposal.
  • Saves time since there’s no need to stop and empty a bag.

Cons:

  • Not ideal for tall or wet grass, as clippings may clump and smother the lawn.
  • Requires a mulching blade or a specific setting on your mower.

Best For:
Eco-conscious homeowners who mow regularly and want to improve soil health over time.

Side Discharge: Quick and Efficient

What It Does:
Side discharge mowers expel clippings out the side of the mower deck, dispersing them in rows as you mow.

When to Use It:
This method is best when mowing tall, thick, or wet grass—like after a long vacation or during fast-growing spring months.

Pros:

  • Handles tall or damp grass better than other methods.
  • Keeps the mower from clogging.
  • Generally faster, especially for larger lawns.

Cons:

  • Leaves visible clumps of grass, which may require raking.
  • Can spread weed seeds and requires attention to direction to avoid blowing clippings onto sidewalks or driveways.

Best For:
Large or overgrown lawns, or when mowing less frequently.

Bagging: A Clean Finish

What It Does:
Bagging mowers collect clippings in an attached container, which you then empty into a compost pile or yard waste bin.

When to Use It:
Use bagging when you want a pristine, clean-cut lawn with no clippings left behind—especially useful before hosting events or during the fall to collect leaves.

Pros:

  • Leaves the lawn looking clean and tidy.
  • Prevents spreading weed seeds or fungal spores.
  • Useful for composting or collecting leaves.

Cons:

  • More time-consuming due to emptying the bag.
  • Doesn’t return nutrients to the lawn.
  • Requires storage space for the bag attachment.

Best For:
Smaller lawns, homeowners focused on appearance, or times when grass is too long or full of weeds.

The Bottom Line

Choosing the right mowing method depends on your lawn’s condition, your goals, and how often you mow. For general lawn health and convenience, mulching is often the best choice. When dealing with overgrowth, side discharge is the most practical. If you’re aiming for a polished look, bagging delivers the cleanest results. Switching between methods as needed can give you the healthiest and best-looking lawn year-round.

DIY

New Homeowner’s Guide: How a Sump Pump Works and the Maintenance You Need to Know

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Becoming a new homeowner is exciting, but it also comes with a long list of things to learn. One critical system you might encounter, especially if your home has a basement, is the sump pump. Understanding how a sump pump works and the maintenance it requires is key to protecting your home from water damage.

If you’re wondering “How does a sump pump work?” or “What sump pump maintenance do I need to do?”, you’re in the right place. Let’s break it down!

What Is a Sump Pump and How Does It Work?

A sump pump is a device installed in the lowest part of a basement or crawlspace. Its job is to prevent flooding by collecting and pumping water away from your home’s foundation.

Here’s how it works:

  • Water naturally flows into a sump pit (a basin built into the floor).
  • When the water level rises to a certain point, the float switch activates the sump pump.
  • The pump then directs the water through a discharge pipe and safely away from your home.

This process helps keep your basement dry, protecting your home from mold, structural damage, and costly repairs.

Why Sump Pump Maintenance Is So Important

Like any appliance, your sump pump needs regular maintenance to work effectively—especially when you need it most during heavy rains or melting snow. A sump pump failure can lead to serious flooding and expensive damage. Routine maintenance ensures that your pump operates when it’s needed.

Essential Sump Pump Maintenance Tips for New Homeowners

  1. Test Your Sump Pump Regularly
    At least once every three months, pour a bucket of water into the sump pit. The pump should kick on automatically and drain the water quickly. If it doesn’t, it’s time to troubleshoot or call a professional.
  2. Inspect the Discharge Line
    Make sure the discharge pipe is free of clogs and debris. Also, ensure it’s directing water well away from your foundation—ideally 10 feet or more.
  3. Clean the Sump Pit
    Debris like dirt and rocks can clog your sump pump and cause it to malfunction. Every few months, unplug the pump and clear out the pit by hand or with a wet/dry vacuum.
  4. Check the Power Source
    Your sump pump should be plugged into a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlet. Test the outlet periodically to make sure it’s delivering power. Consider a battery backup system to keep your pump running during power outages.
  5. Schedule a Professional Inspection
    Once a year, have a professional inspect your sump pump. They can spot issues you might miss and make sure the pump is ready for storm season.

Final Thoughts

As a new homeowner, understanding your sump pump is a big step toward safeguarding your investment. Regular sump pump maintenance is not complicated, but it’s crucial for preventing water damage and giving you peace of mind.

By staying on top of simple tasks like testing the pump, cleaning the pit, and checking the discharge line, you’ll ensure your sump pump keeps your basement dry and your home protected for years to come.

DIY

How to Split a Large Log into Firewood Using a Hatchet: A Beginner’s Guide

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When it comes to preparing firewood for your fireplace, campfire, or wood-burning stove, knowing how to split a large log with a hatchet is a valuable skill. While many people use axes or mechanical splitters, a hatchet can be just as effective—especially for smaller tasks or when you’re off the grid. In this post, we’ll walk you through the process of splitting a large log into firewood using a hatchet, safely and efficiently.

What You’ll Need

Before you begin, gather the following tools:

  • A sturdy hatchet (well-sharpened and in good condition)
  • A chopping block or large, flat stump
  • Work gloves and safety goggles
  • Optional: wooden mallet or hammer for added control

Step-by-Step Guide to Splitting a Log with a Hatchet

1. Choose the Right Log

Start with a log that has been properly dried or seasoned—ideally for 6–12 months. Wet or green wood is much harder to split and may damage your hatchet. The log should also be free of excessive knots or twists, which can make splitting more difficult.

2. Place the Log on a Chopping Block

Position your log upright on a stable chopping block or large tree stump. This not only raises the log to a comfortable height but also prevents the hatchet from striking the ground or bouncing back dangerously.

3. Identify Natural Cracks

Look for visible cracks or splits in the log. These natural fault lines are the easiest places to start your strike. If none are visible, aim slightly off-center rather than straight through the heartwood.

4. Use Controlled Strikes

Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and grip the hatchet firmly with both hands. Raise the hatchet above your head and bring it down in a controlled motion toward the crack or the edge of the log. Focus on precision over force.

5. Tap and Wedge for Stubborn Logs

If the log is particularly thick or tough, you can drive the hatchet into the wood and then tap the back with a wooden mallet. This turns your hatchet into a wedge, allowing you to work through the grain more easily without risking injury from wild swings.

6. Repeat and Rotate

Once the log begins to split, rotate it slightly and repeat your strikes along the new edges. Work your way around until the entire log is broken down into smaller, manageable pieces.

Safety Tips

  • Always wear gloves and goggles to protect your hands and eyes from flying wood chips.
  • Never strike downward toward your feet.
  • Keep your hatchet sharp—it’s safer and more efficient.

Conclusion

Splitting a large log with a hatchet may take a bit more time and effort than using an axe, but it’s a great way to build your skills and enjoy a hands-on approach to preparing firewood. With proper technique and safety precautions, you’ll turn even the toughest log into a neat pile of firewood in no time.

DIY

How to Fix a Loose Fence Post: A Simple DIY Guide

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A loose fence post can compromise the strength and stability of your entire fence. Whether it’s due to age, shifting soil, or weather damage, a wobbly fence post needs quick attention before it causes bigger structural issues. Fortunately, fixing a loose fence post is a straightforward DIY job if you have the right tools and a bit of time.

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to fix a loose fence post and restore your fence’s stability.

What Causes a Fence Post to Become Loose?

Understanding the cause helps determine the best fix. Common reasons include:

  • Rotting wood (especially at the base)
  • Erosion or water damage around the post
  • Loose or crumbling concrete footing
  • Impact damage (e.g., from wind or accidents)

If the post itself is rotten or broken, it should be replaced. But if the post is in good shape and just loose in the ground, read on.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

  • Shovel or post hole digger
  • Gravel
  • Quick-set concrete or expanding foam post mix
  • Level
  • 2x4s or metal braces for support
  • Hammer, drill, or impact driver
  • Safety gloves and goggles

Step-by-Step: How to Fix a Loose Fence Post

1. Expose the Base of the Post

Use a shovel to dig around the base of the fence post. Clear at least 6–8 inches around the post to see what’s causing the looseness. If there’s old concrete, check if it’s cracked or shifted.

2. Straighten the Post

Use a level to check if the post is upright. If it’s leaning, straighten it carefully. Temporarily brace it in position using 2x4s or metal post supports.

3. Reinforce the Base

Depending on what you find, there are two main ways to reinforce the post:

Option A: With Concrete

  • Remove any loose or broken concrete.
  • Add a few inches of gravel at the bottom for drainage.
  • Mix and pour quick-set concrete around the post, filling the hole completely.
  • Re-check the level and adjust as needed.
  • Let it set for at least 4–6 hours.

Option B: With Foam Post Mix

  • A faster alternative to concrete.
  • Simply pour the two-part foam into the hole.
  • It expands and sets in minutes, securing the post firmly.

4. Finish Up

Once the post is solid and the material has cured:

  • Remove the temporary braces.
  • Backfill the remaining hole with soil and tamp it down firmly.
  • Reattach any panels or rails that were disconnected during the process.

Prevent Loose Fence Posts in the Future

  • Keep soil and mulch away from the base of wooden posts.
  • Improve drainage to avoid water pooling near posts.
  • Periodically inspect and reinforce posts before they become unstable.
  • Consider using pressure-treated or metal posts for better durability.

Final Thoughts

Fixing a loose fence post is an easy way to extend the life of your fence without replacing it entirely. With the right materials and a couple of hours, you can restore your fence’s strength and keep your yard secure.

DIY

Trench Composting: How to Compost Directly in the Ground in Your Yard

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If you’re looking for a simple, low-maintenance way to compost at home without the hassle of bins or turning piles, trench composting is an ideal method. Also known as in-ground composting, trench composting allows you to recycle kitchen scraps and yard waste directly into the soil, enriching your garden naturally. This guide will show you how to get started with trench composting in your yard and reap the benefits of rich, fertile soil.

What is Trench Composting?

Trench composting is the process of burying organic materials—like fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, eggshells, and yard clippings—directly into the soil. As these materials decompose underground, they feed the soil microbes and earthworms, improving soil structure and nutrient content over time.

Why Choose Trench Composting?

Trench composting offers several advantages:

  • Odor-free: Since the scraps are buried, there’s no unpleasant smell.
  • Pest-resistant: Underground composting keeps rodents and insects away.
  • Low-maintenance: No turning, watering, or managing piles.
  • Space-saving: Ideal for small yards or garden beds.

How to Start Trench Composting in Your Yard

Follow these simple steps to begin trench composting:

1. Choose a Location

Pick a spot in your garden or yard where you want to enrich the soil. You can compost in between garden rows, in empty beds during the off-season, or along flower beds. Make sure the area has good drainage.

2. Dig a Trench or Hole

Use a shovel to dig a trench about 12 inches deep and 6–12 inches wide. The length can vary based on how much material you want to compost. If you’re composting small amounts, you can dig a simple hole instead.

3. Add Organic Material

Place your compostable kitchen scraps into the trench. Good options include:

  • Fruit and vegetable peels
  • Coffee grounds and filters
  • Tea bags (without staples)
  • Crushed eggshells
  • Grass clippings and shredded leaves
  • Wood ash (in moderation)

Wood ash from untreated, clean-burning wood can be a great addition to your trench compost. It’s rich in potassium and other trace minerals that support plant growth. However, use it sparingly—too much can make your soil overly alkaline. A thin sprinkling over your scraps is plenty.

Avoid meat, dairy, oils, or pet waste, as these can attract pests and slow decomposition.

4. Cover with Soil

Once your trench is filled with scraps, cover it with the soil you dug out. You should have at least 6 inches of soil on top to prevent animals from digging and to allow proper decomposition.

5. Mark the Area

Mark the spot so you remember where you buried the material. You can return to this area in a few months to plant or dig another trench nearby.

Trench Composting Tips

  • Rotate trench composting areas every few months to evenly enrich your yard.
  • Avoid trenching near the roots of established trees or shrubs.
  • Use trench composting in fall or winter to prep soil for spring planting.

Final Thoughts

Trench composting is a beginner-friendly, eco-conscious way to reduce kitchen waste and improve your garden soil—no compost bin required. With minimal effort, you can naturally feed your yard and grow healthier plants. Give trench composting a try and watch your soil—and your garden—come alive.